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If you get one of those DB-15 to DE-15 adapters, make sure it has jumpers and isn't just a straight pass through, because that's how the video card knows what resolutions the monitor is capable of. Straight pass-thru adapters will generally just run at 640x480@67 Hz. As for what monitor to use...

In normal operation, those chips get mildly warm, but not burning hot. I suspect your chip is most likely dead.

I would still recommend recapping it. Almost all Macs prior to 2006 have problems with capacitors, and they get worse the older they get. Once they start leaking, they can cause irreversible damage.

The logic board has the stereotypical garbage 90s SMD electrolytics, you need to recap the logic board. They can be misleading and look fine on first glance, but when you remove them from the board, you'll see wicked up electrolyte under the base. You also likely need to recap the power supply...

It could be anything really. The 6360/6400/6500 all had the same logic board design and could be interchanged. I have a 6400/180 logic board in my 6360 case. The PowerPC 603ev in the 6500 definitely required a fan because it consumed more power. You can always pop the heatsink off and look at...

If you want to look at the logic board, push down the two clips on the I/O cover on the back and hinge it down. There will be two M4(?) screws under the bumps on either side. Remove both of those and stick your hand in the open slot, grab and gently pull out. The whole motherboard should slide...

You know that you can buy directly from TI.com right? While Digikey has the excuse of being in Canada, Mouser is within spitting distance of TI in Dallas. Mouser often has backorder dates of years when TI has tons of stock. Anyway, think this is the chip you need. You may need an account to...

I've had that problem before on that style of speaker, it's usually one of three issues in my experience: 1) The spider (the accordion looking thing under the cone) is warped from heat and/or moisture or the glue contracting over time and pulls the voice coil so it touches the wall of the...

I would guess for a 68020. There were quite a few Mac upgrades that had options for either a 68020 or 68030 to fit different price points. It's cheaper for them to make a board to support both CPUs and just fill out whatever CPU they want for what model. I have a LC/LCII/CC upgrade board with a...

That charging chart would be valid on a modern "smart" charger, but that's not what we're dealing with here. Early PowerBooks like the 100 and 145B were designed to use NiCD batteries and "dumb" charging, where they just smack a constant voltage across them. The early PowerBooks just passed the...

There's either something wrong with your pack or your meter because five 1.5v cells in series should be 7.5v, not 6.2v. Are you sure you have ALL of the batteries orientated correctly? One backwards cell would explain the voltage discrepancy.

Did you check your PowerBook's DC adapter? Does it look like this? If the DC voltage is too low from the power brick, then the battery pack won't charge fully. It also takes a VERY long time for the pack to first charge with fresh cells. I think the pack I built took 3-4 hours to charge...

It can be a bit higher than 12v, but not more than 50v. The real problem is that it's high frequency AC in the dozens of kHz. The higher the switching frequency of AC, the easier it is to get bit by it at lower voltages, at least in my experience. The safety factor is working on the equipment...

Easiest way to solder a battery end is to scuff it up with fine grit metal sandpaper, then put a blob of solder on it, then tin the wire/fuse end and squish them together with the soldering iron. For the fuses, you'll want to hammer the end of the lead flat to give more surface area. Trying to...

It's not hard to do when all of the usual marketplaces juxtapose your search terms to try and get more results, even though they're wrong/irrelevant. I was bombarded with pages of those crappy yellow NiCD 1200 mAh batteries when I was searching for 2100 mAh cells. After awhile the numbers all...

Probably too late, but I'd not recommend using those cells. You'll get a total pack capacity of 2400 mAh, which is 33% less than even the original Apple battery pack of 3600 mAh.

This is what I used to replace mine. Unfortunately though, it is out of stock until October. https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/851-RCR875DNP-151K I found a substitute that is the same dimensions with a slightly higher 720 mAh rating that will probably work...

The battery level indicator works, but it's wildly inaccurate since it just measures the voltage and doesn't do any fancy load calculations. NiMH batteries have a characteristic where they'll hold their voltage almost constant until the very end of their charge and suddenly fall off a cliff...

If you wired the two packs in parallel, yes. The first prototype of this battery used one of those packs just wired directly to the terminals on the battery case and it worked.

Those won't work without significant modification. The battery case is designed to have batteries split into 2+3 pairs with a gap between them for the thermal fuse. The heat shrink will prevent them from being installed into the case at all without snapping those out. The thermal fuse also has...