Search results

I used these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/274559922943 You get all 10 batteries for $17.95, or about $1.80 a cell. As these are 4/5A, you'll have a lot of extra room in the pack to route wires compared to full A cells. These still give you a greater pack capacity than the original NiCD batteries...

I used these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/254302892153 In order to get them to sit between the cells, I had to do some creative folding with the leads using needle pliers. I also had to hammer the ends of the leads flat to make a better connection to the battery terminal. The leads are pretty...

No, because the tabs are not orientated properly. While all of the tabs in the center of the battery pack are all in the same direction, they're 90 degrees rotated on the outside of the pack, as well as needing space to install the thermal cutouts. If you want to go the solder method, just...

I made the same mistake on one of my floppy drives. I found that getting some heavy lead fishing weights and attaching them to the upper head arm makes the drive work again. It obviously causes clearance issues in most machines, but not in the SE. My drive had the spring screws cross threaded...

I've had 8.1 on my overclocked LC III, and my stock Performa 600. In both cases, it was painfully slow. Not sure how its usable on a SE/30 with a 68030 at half the speed of either of those machines. I don't see the benefit either, you actually lose support for older applications and drivers...

In order for a G4 upgrade to work on any G3 machine, beige or B&W, you need to do a firmware update so the machine recognizes a G4 CPU. Without it, the G4 isn't going to work at all. As to where to get it, I don't remember. I upgraded my B&W G3 15+ years ago with a Sonnet G4 733 and I remember...

There are a number of problems associated with repacking "smart" lithium ion battery packs, starting with the "smarts" of them. Quite a few of them are programmed to fail after X cycles to coincide with the normal wear of the specified batteries, or if a fault is detected and write data to a bit...

I would suspect a nearby shorted tantalum or MLC capacitor. You might try looking for shorts to ground on nearby capacitors, or shorts across the capacitors. While other components could be at fault, SMD tantalums and MLC capacitors are the ones that cause trouble more often.

I've had DIMM memory modules get shorted RAM chips that burn pins out in the RAM socket, but never seen one blow a hole in a PCB. I guess the thicker pins in a SIMM socket facilitate more current being able to pass through the board.

Check the analog board for failed solder joints. The heat causes the solder joints to crack, which looks like a ring inside of the solder joint, but sometimes the component leg can separate from the solder around it too. Best to just redo all of the solder joints on the analog board. The...

I second checking that area on the PB100. I had the exact same problem with no display and the problem didn't reveal itself until I flipped the board over and L3 fell off the board, it was hanging on by a thin wisp of a corroded leg. All three inductors should be removed and closely inspected...

Re-celling a PowerBook 1xx series battery isn't impossible, but it also isn't easy. You'd be better off printing my battery case linked above and build a new pack. Breaking open an old PB battery is a chore, exposes you to hazardous materials and is hard to do in a way that keeps the shell...

Kai Robinson on Discord suggested I post this here. I reverse engineered the battery pack used in the PowerBook 1xx series (minus the 100, which uses a different SLA battery pack) and designed a new case that can be printed. It is not 100% identical to the original pack, I removed the guides...