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Heh. Seeing how it looks like the Ali listing has directly stolen some images from the Pico Mac nano GitHub, I'd say you're right.

Sure, this one popped in my Ali spam not long after I bought a Maclock Retro MiniMac Computer Handheld | Functional 1984 macOS on RP2040, 2-inch Monochrome Screen, Preassembled 3D-Printed Case https://a.aliexpress.com/_mNeKlaJ

Hate to be a party pooper, but it looks like you've already been Aliexpressed. There's at least one seller doing a full mini Mac, albeit not based on the Maclock but rather a 3d print. Price? $85 Australian, or about $60 USD

Chip Quik is the answer. Low melt solder allows you to use a regular iron for tasks that normally require hot air, like IC removal.

Yeah. All the lcs I've done have had really bad PSUs. Like, liquid electrolyte still on the board. Really eats at the solder mask and eventually the traces. I think he design had a bit of a heat problem, and it's usually the caps bunched at the end of it that suffer the worst.

Dumb question, is the 28c64 pin compatible with the 27c64? If not, that might be your issue.

Ah, it will do. PSU will probably be a mess too unfortunately.

I've done push and twist many times. Nothing is perfect, but I've definitely done more damage with hot air than twisting. Remember, it's push down then twist. Definitely no pulling

Ah nice. Makes sense. The sound chip monitors voltages before releasing the reset line, and it would take longer to charge up that cap.

Perhaps an analogue board issue delivering unstable power? I have a similar issue with a Classic whereby if it's cold it'll take a little while before it chimes and boots. I'm putting that down to leaked electrolyte that's seeped into the AB near the optocoupler creating some undesirable...