Power Macintosh 7200/7300/7500/7600 Power Button

Ooops. I did attach the stl and step file but looks like the forum doesn't like those and just removes the. I zipped them instead now and attached it to the previous post.
 
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I have a couple of machines that I bought with the power button missing altogether, so I needed a complete reproduction rather than just a repair. I wasn't particularly happy with the shape of the button part in the thingiverse STL, so I've made my own. It still needs a few tweaks, but it's coming along nicely.

And yes, I know it's the wrong colour.

IMG_8633.jpg
 
alxlab said:
Here's the STEP and STL files to add the clips back to an original button. I'm tempted to make an extension of the original button to make it so it won't need to be pressed so much and get stuck sometimes like the original.

License under CC BY-NC-SA 4.0


View attachment 527
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Kudos! The originals were nice until time's tide came along. They are incredible brittle now those buttons are. So yeah, good job!
 
@Branchus can I ask what software you used to build this STL - I'm new to this and trying to figure out what the best tools are! I'm planning to build the motherboard standoff clips and the internal power switch clip (all of which are broken on mine) as an STL and share them here in case anyone else needs them!
 
Did you dry your PETG filament? That looks like classic wet PETG print issues to me. It does look like the file is a 3d scan and not modeled (you can see the faint raised part number on the surface), but it is a really good 3d scan that looks very clean to me.

You definitely need to print with supports (because of the curves and overhangs), dry your PETG, and maybe start with a reference cube or 3D Benchy first before trying to print this part again.
 
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chuck.dubuque said:
Did you dry your PETG filament? That looks like classic wet PETG print issues to me. It does look like the file is a 3d scan and not modeled (you can see the faint raised part number on the surface), but it is a really good 3d scan that looks very clean to me.

You definitely need to print with supports (because of the curves and overhangs), dry your PETG, and maybe start with a reference cube or 3D Benchy first before trying to print this part again.
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Yes, the PETG was dry.
We reoriented the model so the largest surface was the bottom layer. Lesss supported needed. We tried an in fill of 25% - 30% and that seems to be too much. The engineering students are pretty good with the 3D printer, so perhaps they can help me adjust things. Cleaning up the support fills is tough to do on that first bad print.

I did the PMac 7600 kick stand earlier and it turned out great.
 
After my own disastrous PETG print (too flexible), I printed one in Nylon, and it works well. It won’t shatter the way my polyurethane casting from 2012 recently did.
 
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S. Pupp said:
After my own disastrous PETG print (too flexible), I printed one in Nylon, and it works well. It won’t shatter the way my polyurethane casting from 2012 recently did.
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Thanks. I will work with one of the engineering students and set up a nylon sliced version. Though I did use Co-Pilot to customize my PRUSA settings. Here is the sliced screenshot.
3D Slice Model.png
 
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